Costumes
are the final piece added to the production of a show and they serve, quite
literally, as the final layer placed on a character. Both the audience and
actor can sense the full embodiment of a character when wearing the character’s
full garb. Additionally, the costume can assist in giving the audience clues
into the identities of the characters when they first appear on stage. Costumes
can signify a person’s social status, age, or occupation, and, most
importantly, they serve as the vehicle that transports you into the world where
the theatrics take place.
Prior
to this embarkment, the costumes must be built in the costume shop; this
process can take weeks for just one piece. First someone (at People’s Light
it’s our Cutter/Draper Abbie Wysor) takes the rendering provided by the Designer
and makes a pattern based on this design and the measurements of the actor
playing the role. Next the pattern is cut out in a basic fabric, usually
muslin, and a Stitcher makes what is called a “mock-up.” Then a fitting is
called with the actor and the mock-up is tried on, thus providing the
Cutter/Draper and Designer with an opportunity to check the pattern and note
any alterations that need to be made to the pattern before it is cut from the
selected fabric.
After
the adjustments have been made on the pattern it's time to cut the real fabric
and again a Stitcher begins to sew the pattern together. Once the seams are
sewn on the costumes the actor is brought in for another fitting. This time the
Designer and Cutter/Draper check and mark the desired sleeve and hem lengths
and mark all closures. At this point, if there are any embellishments that are
to be added the Designer might take some time to determine where they will be
placed on the costume and mark them as well. It is then time for the Stitcher
to finish the costume by completing the hems, any buttons or closures, and
securing the lining and any added embellishments. Sometimes there will be a
final fitting with the actor to double check that everything is lining up right.
This is especially true for more complicated garments.
Now
the costume is ready for tech but that doesn’t necessarily mean that it’s
complete. This is the time where the Designer gets to see their design and how it
fits within the world of the play. During tech changes are often made,
sometimes because of what the Designer and the Director are seeing onstage, however
sometimes changes are made due to logistics. For example, during the tech
rehearsals an actor or director may discover that there isn’t enough time to
complete a costume change, or perhaps the physicality of the actor’s role may
necessitate changes because movement is impaired. At this point the Designer and
Dresser determine how the costume should be rigged to facilitate a quick change,
or to make room for more mobility.
Following
tech and dress rehearsals comes Opening Night. Here is where the costumes are
complete and ready for an audiences viewing pleasure.
